Dai Pai Dong I was written for Western orchestra. It won first prize in the International Lepo Sumera Composition Contest II (2006) in Tallinn, Estonia; the Libby Larsen Prize in the composition competition, Search for New Music by Women Composers (2006) held by the International Alliance for Women in Music in the US; and a special prize in the IBLA World Competition in Italy (2006).
‘Dai pai dong’, literally ‘stall with big sign’, is a kind of fast food stall in Hong Kong. A whole generation of Hongkongers has grown up with it, so it is indeed one of the unique local features. I was inspired to write on the subject to promote it to the international audience.
As a sequel,
Dai Pai Dong II features ‘cart noodles’, a kind of à la carte noodles sold in hand-pushed carts. It started off in the 1950s and became popular, and by now has become an iconic feature of Hong Kong. It is also called “
na cha mien”, or “cheap and dirty noodles” in Cantonese, in reference to its plebeian origin.
In writing this piece, I have combined the phonic qualities of ‘
na cha’ in Cantonese with the rolling arm movements of cooking the noodles to highlight the rhythm and focus of the music. The whole cooking process is represented in the following music sequence: a handful of oil noodles is dropped into the boiling water; some pig’s intestine and squid are cut into small pieces with scissors; the toppings and the noodles are scooped up and placed in a bowl; then seasoning is added, with two ladles of soup and three spoonfuls of spicy sauce. Both the palpable and the abstract qualities are included in the musical representation.
The work is in three sections. The first, ‘
na cha’, is vigorous with strong rhythms and dynamic. The second, ‘a handful of oil noodles’, runs in a linear progression that suggests the picturesque emergence of the noodles from the water. The third, ‘two ladles of soup and three spoonfuls of spicy sauce’, leads the dynamic and the rhythm to a climactic close.
The musical conceit is not to tell the story of cart noodles, although this kind of fast food is very much a part of everyman’s life. I am more concerned with the cultural value embedded in it. I hope to describe the characteristic Hongkonger in us – our attention to detail whether in terms of food or things in general, our goals and dreams, and our adaptability – through the expressiveness of Chinese instrumental music.
- Cheung Pui-shan